Hair Porosity Explained (And Why It Matters)
Hair porosity is a key concept in hair care that determines how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. In simple terms, porosity is about the condition of the cuticle layer – the scales on each strand. If your cuticles lie very flat and tight, your hair is low-porosity. If they are lifted or open, your hair is high-porosity. Medium (normal) porosity is in between. This matters because it affects how products work on your hair and what care routine to follow - Low Porosity: Cuticles are tightly closed. Hair resists absorbing water or oils easily and products tend to sit on the surface. You might notice conditioner beads up or your hair feels coated. If left on too much, products cause buildup.
To care for low-porosity hair: use lighter, water-based products (e.g. aloe vera juice, protein-free conditioners) and apply to warm, damp hair so cuticles open slightly Clarifying occasionally and using heat (warm towel or steamer) during deep- conditioning can help lift the cuticles. - High Porosity: Cuticles are raised or damaged (this often happens due to bleaching, heat, or naturally curly hair) Hair soaks up water and products quickly but also loses moisture just as fast. High-porosity hair often looks frizzy, absorbs water rapidly (strand sinks in water) It breaks easily and can feel rough.
To manage it, use rich, emollient products: deep conditioners, leave-ins with oils or butters (shea butter, coconut oil ) that seal moisture Regular protein treatments can also help rebuild some cuticle strength 42 , but balance them with heavy hydration. - Medium Porosity: Cuticles are somewhat raised but can lock in moisture well. This “ideal” porosity means hair takes the best of both worlds – moisture goes in and stays. Medium-porosity hair responds well to most products without too much tweaking. You can generally treat it with a balanced mix of moisturizing and protein-rich products.
How to Test Porosity: A popular DIY test is the water glass test Drop a clean strand of hair into a glass of water: - It floats at the top for several minutes = low porosity. - It drifts in the middle = medium porosity. - It sinks quickly = high porosity. Another quick check is the slide test : Slide your finger from root to tip on a dry strand. If it feels smooth, likely low porosity; if you feel bumps, that hair is more porous. Why It Matters: Knowing your porosity helps tailor your routine. For example, if you have high-porosity hair from bleaching, you’ll want to constantly seal it with oils or butters to slow moisture loss.
If you’re low- porosity, heavier creams might just sit on your hair – instead, choose lighter sprays and consider adding a spoon of glycerin or honey to help pull moisture in Curly and coily hair often tends to be higher in porosity naturally , meaning many curlies need a strong moisturizing regimen to prevent brittle, straw- like ends. Adjust Your Products: - Low Porosity: Use protein-free conditioners and light hydrating mists Humectants like glycerin (found in aloe gel) can be great to attract moisture. Minimize heavy butters unless you warm them up first. - High Porosity: Use protein-rich and thick conditioners.
Seal with oils (coconut, argan, castor) or butter (shea, mango butter) to block moisture loss Deep condition often with heat (like a steamed cap) to close cuticles and lock in hydration. - All Porosities: Always use a sulfate-free shampoo to avoid stripping whatever moisture is in your hair. If you have build-up (common with low porosity), use a clarifying shampoo every 4–6 weeks to help products penetrate By matching your products to your porosity, you’ll notice easier detangling , less frizz, and healthier, shinier hair. What’s your porosity? Try the water test and adjust your next DIY conditioner accordingly. 🔍